This tasting was a pleasant surprise for yours truly. We wanted to do something different for the holiday weekend and I guess we hit the spot with our Friday afternoon "cocktail hour". This affair offered three dry whites, two dry reds, and two cocktails, "Tincho" and Sangria.
Here is your review:
1. Surazo Sauvignon Blanc 2008 was a pear/mineral medium body Sauvignon Blanc that satisfied fairly well at $9.99/btl. It hails from the Rapel Valley of Chile.
2. Barnard Griffin Fume Blanc 2010 from Colombia Valley, Washington has been a proven winner in this store in the past and showed well last night. While this wine has often been more floral and feminine in style, it now appears more forthright and demonstrably Sauvignon Blanc. This one is an $11.99 retail.
3. Cutler Creek California non-vintage Pinot Grigio was over matched by the others but it was supposed to be so. It is a $5.99 "recession" label and is actually a bargain at that price.
4. Rimbaldi Italian Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 2009 was also out of character for this event. It was a pasta wine to be sure and we weren't serving pasta, but that said, everyone seemed to like it. It sells for $11.99/btl.
5. Schweiger Spring Mountain Napa Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 was also not a clear fit in this event. It is a $40/btl srp that I was offering last night for $25/btl. It is most definitely superior wine but probably not $40's worth.
6. New Age is a sweet blended white (90% Torrontes/10% Sauvignon Blanc) from Argentina that makes a drink called "Tincho" when poured over ice with a wedge of lime. The lime seems to cut the sweetness. New Age retails for $11.99/btl.
7. Sangria Classico is a real find for those who like sangria in the summertime. It comes to us from Spain with a recommendation to add fruit, orange in particular, and, of course, serve chilled. This one is $9.99/1.5l bottle!
The three best selling wines of the tasting were: 1. New Age, 2. Sangria Classico, and 3. Surazo Sauvignon Blanc. Stop in this week and pick up any three of these and get your 10% case discount by citing this report. Schweiger came in fourth by the way and cannot be discounted further.
Stop in this week and ask about the best buy in the store. It's an Italian red under $10. How about champagne for the holiday? Happy 4th!
Saturday, July 2, 2011
Wednesday, June 29, 2011
Rioja Pt.4, Tempranillo and the Future
1960 marks the beginning of the modern wine industry in Spain. Multinationals began to invest in Spain at that time with designs on providing for what they foresaw as a burgeoning American market. Mechanized cultivation with pesticides snd herbicides, being the norm of the times, meant a general trend away from hillside vineyards toward the fertile Ebro River banks which would be easier to farm. Tempranillo became established as the premier grape of Rioja at that time replacing Mazuelo and Graciano, with clonal selection for quantity and disease resistance being the operative guideline.
It wasn't until the 1980's that reds came to dominate whites in production reflecting the coming of age of the American market. The reds of the time were blends of the three major regions of Rioja; the Alta, Alavesa, and Baja; and were traditional blends of Tempranillo (color and elegance), Garnacha (fruit and alcohol), Graciano (spice and acidity), and Mazuelo (astringency and bitterness). As stated in an earlier installment there had been a gradual trending away from lengthy oak barrel aging and more emphasis upon retaining a fresh and fruity structure.
Robert Parker, the premier wine critic, came to wield an undue influence in the wine world in the 1980's and in Spain he was both the bane of the industry's existence and its catalyst for change. Traditional Riojas did not meet Parker's standard for textured, dark fruity, jammy intensity. They were always intended to be food wines as opposed to centerpiece wines but Parker's influence hastened the changes necessary for commercial success and eventual Parker accolades.
Spain has historically looked to France for direction in its wine industry and in the modern era of international winemaking with truly remarkable winemaking artists on retainer, estate-grown Tempranillo has assumed a greater stature. The traditional blends of Alto, Alavesa, and Baja are now yielding to the terroir-driven estates of the French model. Tempranillo in the northern Rioja is now being compared to Pinot Noir(!)with its red fruit flavors, moderate weight, and low astringency as opposed to the oak aged more Cabernet-like style.
Rioja's higher elevation with its foothill vineyards near the Cantabrian Mountains actually compares more favorably with the terroir of Burgundy (Pinot Noir) than to Bordeaux (Cabernet), its historic counterpart. With Tempranillo's short growing season and harvesting at cool Rioja temperatures, blended or unblended, the comparison only deepens. Now mechanized farming and the movement away from the Cantabrians has to be reconsidered and reversed for the future of Tempranillo in Rioja looks very interesting to say the least.
It wasn't until the 1980's that reds came to dominate whites in production reflecting the coming of age of the American market. The reds of the time were blends of the three major regions of Rioja; the Alta, Alavesa, and Baja; and were traditional blends of Tempranillo (color and elegance), Garnacha (fruit and alcohol), Graciano (spice and acidity), and Mazuelo (astringency and bitterness). As stated in an earlier installment there had been a gradual trending away from lengthy oak barrel aging and more emphasis upon retaining a fresh and fruity structure.
Robert Parker, the premier wine critic, came to wield an undue influence in the wine world in the 1980's and in Spain he was both the bane of the industry's existence and its catalyst for change. Traditional Riojas did not meet Parker's standard for textured, dark fruity, jammy intensity. They were always intended to be food wines as opposed to centerpiece wines but Parker's influence hastened the changes necessary for commercial success and eventual Parker accolades.
Spain has historically looked to France for direction in its wine industry and in the modern era of international winemaking with truly remarkable winemaking artists on retainer, estate-grown Tempranillo has assumed a greater stature. The traditional blends of Alto, Alavesa, and Baja are now yielding to the terroir-driven estates of the French model. Tempranillo in the northern Rioja is now being compared to Pinot Noir(!)with its red fruit flavors, moderate weight, and low astringency as opposed to the oak aged more Cabernet-like style.
Rioja's higher elevation with its foothill vineyards near the Cantabrian Mountains actually compares more favorably with the terroir of Burgundy (Pinot Noir) than to Bordeaux (Cabernet), its historic counterpart. With Tempranillo's short growing season and harvesting at cool Rioja temperatures, blended or unblended, the comparison only deepens. Now mechanized farming and the movement away from the Cantabrians has to be reconsidered and reversed for the future of Tempranillo in Rioja looks very interesting to say the least.
Monday, June 27, 2011
Wine Tasting Review - June 24, 2011
There were actually eight wines tasted here this weekend, the six scheduled and presented by Curtis Gauthier of Empire Distributing, and two additional chardonnays that proved noteworthy. Six wines deserve commentary here.
The 2009 Rodney Strong Charlotte's Home Sauvignon Blanc ($12.99/btl) was complex and rich with body for that grape type. It was quintessential California wine and did not rely on the transient popularity of the citrus overdose so many have.
The 2009 Marquis de Caceres Rioja Rose ($9.99/btl) was just about right for what it was in our time and place, ie., its summer wine and this is summer.
2009 Ernie Els "Big Easy" Red Blend ($19.99/btl) is a South African Syrah/Cabernet blend with a few other grapes filling it out. It was clearly superior wine with its mouth-filling new world grapy Rhone-ish opulence. "Centerpiece" would seem to be the operative word here.
Henri Savard NV French Blanc de Blancs ($9.99/btl) was timely in the same way the rose was. It helped that Curtis, a trained chef, served it with a dollop of raspberry sorbet in it.
The 2008 NO Chardonnay ($13.99/btl) was not served Friday night since it was from a different distributor but I did show it with the others on Saturday and it was obviously superior to many others on the table. NO is unoaked California wine that still seems more substantial and complex than others in that category.
The 2003 Carpe Diem Mount Eden Chardonnay ($24.99/btl) was one I had taken off the shelf fearing it was no longer good. It was actually great on Friday but less so on Saturday and when I finished it on Sunday, it was spotty. Eight years is the maximum you should expect for new world chardonnay from a superior vintage and this one was just right, but they do decline quickly after uncorking.
The best sellers this weekend were the sauvignon blanc, rose, and sparkler. Hey, it's summer! Stop in this week and try them with a 10% discount.
Don
The 2009 Rodney Strong Charlotte's Home Sauvignon Blanc ($12.99/btl) was complex and rich with body for that grape type. It was quintessential California wine and did not rely on the transient popularity of the citrus overdose so many have.
The 2009 Marquis de Caceres Rioja Rose ($9.99/btl) was just about right for what it was in our time and place, ie., its summer wine and this is summer.
2009 Ernie Els "Big Easy" Red Blend ($19.99/btl) is a South African Syrah/Cabernet blend with a few other grapes filling it out. It was clearly superior wine with its mouth-filling new world grapy Rhone-ish opulence. "Centerpiece" would seem to be the operative word here.
Henri Savard NV French Blanc de Blancs ($9.99/btl) was timely in the same way the rose was. It helped that Curtis, a trained chef, served it with a dollop of raspberry sorbet in it.
The 2008 NO Chardonnay ($13.99/btl) was not served Friday night since it was from a different distributor but I did show it with the others on Saturday and it was obviously superior to many others on the table. NO is unoaked California wine that still seems more substantial and complex than others in that category.
The 2003 Carpe Diem Mount Eden Chardonnay ($24.99/btl) was one I had taken off the shelf fearing it was no longer good. It was actually great on Friday but less so on Saturday and when I finished it on Sunday, it was spotty. Eight years is the maximum you should expect for new world chardonnay from a superior vintage and this one was just right, but they do decline quickly after uncorking.
The best sellers this weekend were the sauvignon blanc, rose, and sparkler. Hey, it's summer! Stop in this week and try them with a 10% discount.
Don
Saturday, June 25, 2011
Rioja Pt. 3, Macabeo/Viura
Spain actually suffered through a sixty year period of devastation between phylloxera, mildew, civil war, depression, and two world wars. Rebuilding post-World War II also was a lag time for the wine (and cheese) industry so 1960 could be seen as the beginning of the modern wine industry in Spain, so make it a seventy five year low for the industry. This issue deals with the white table wine grape of Rioja which actually has twenty five names across Spain but is best known to us as Macabeo or Viura.
Malvasia and Garnacha Blanca were the primary white grapes of Rioja at the turn of the last century. The grafting of vinifera vines onto American rootstocks was not automatic with all vines. Some just didn't work and changes were necessary. This is where the industry shows its mettle. Garnacha Blanca was deemed to be unworkable on American rootstocks and oxidized too easily anyway so it was replaced by Macabeo, a grape with a proven history elsewhere across Spain. Malvasia was then reduced to a supporting role in the white Rioja blend.
Here is where the acumen of the industry leaders of one hundred years ago is in clear evidence. Oxidation was recognized as a problem then and as if they were prescient enough to know the evolution of modern wine making, they chose a grape that would make a lovely light, crisp and floral seafood compliment and when blended, the Malvasia, often barrel fermented for richness, would make the wine suitable for poultry and other Spanish dishes. For inveterate white wine lovers, white Rija fits the summer season like a glove.
Here are two incidental notes on Macabeo outside of Rioja. Macabeo is one of the white grapes sometimes blended in small amounts into certain reds, a practice sometimes employed in wine production regions around the world to make a lighter wine. Macabeo is also part of the Spanish Cava (sparkling wine) blend along with Xarel-lo and Paralleda.
Cite the blog and get your discount on Spanish white wine in the store this month.
Malvasia and Garnacha Blanca were the primary white grapes of Rioja at the turn of the last century. The grafting of vinifera vines onto American rootstocks was not automatic with all vines. Some just didn't work and changes were necessary. This is where the industry shows its mettle. Garnacha Blanca was deemed to be unworkable on American rootstocks and oxidized too easily anyway so it was replaced by Macabeo, a grape with a proven history elsewhere across Spain. Malvasia was then reduced to a supporting role in the white Rioja blend.
Here is where the acumen of the industry leaders of one hundred years ago is in clear evidence. Oxidation was recognized as a problem then and as if they were prescient enough to know the evolution of modern wine making, they chose a grape that would make a lovely light, crisp and floral seafood compliment and when blended, the Malvasia, often barrel fermented for richness, would make the wine suitable for poultry and other Spanish dishes. For inveterate white wine lovers, white Rija fits the summer season like a glove.
Here are two incidental notes on Macabeo outside of Rioja. Macabeo is one of the white grapes sometimes blended in small amounts into certain reds, a practice sometimes employed in wine production regions around the world to make a lighter wine. Macabeo is also part of the Spanish Cava (sparkling wine) blend along with Xarel-lo and Paralleda.
Cite the blog and get your discount on Spanish white wine in the store this month.
Monday, June 20, 2011
Wine Tasting Results June 17th, 2011
Six wines were tasted on this day; three light dry whites, a sweet white, a brut rose sparkler, and a great Russian River Pinot Noir. As the sole red, MacMurray Ranch Russian River Pinot was hands down the finest wine on the table by far. Out of six pinots marketed in the Atlanta market by MacMurray, I had been told it was their best and I am sure it is. Mac Murray even markets an Oregon Pinot, by the way, but I don't think it could be better than this one.
Second place in my opinion was a sleeper, the 2009 Borgo Maddalena Italian (Venezia) Pinot Grigio. This wine was an elegant dinner wine with long soft flavors sheathed within its medium light body. Its acidity was ideal and it was fine.
Third place was a tie between Mistinguett Brut Rose Spanish Cava and Chateau du Casses French White Bordeaux, which is an odd couple indeed. Mistinguette was a large mouthfilling rich "red" rose, probably not for most rose lovers, while du Casses was a very light and dry seafood wine. Mistinguette might serve as a cocktail for red wine lovers and in ninety degree temps I guess du Casses would work the same for white lovers.
Tinterro Moscato d'Asti and The Wishing Tree Unoaked Chardonnay were both decent examples of their types and may have been deserving of third place recognition but they definitly trailed the pinots.
Stop in this week before Friday the 24th and try any of these wines or the new cheeses in the store and get a 20% discount on your purchase.
Thanks for reading,
Don
Second place in my opinion was a sleeper, the 2009 Borgo Maddalena Italian (Venezia) Pinot Grigio. This wine was an elegant dinner wine with long soft flavors sheathed within its medium light body. Its acidity was ideal and it was fine.
Third place was a tie between Mistinguett Brut Rose Spanish Cava and Chateau du Casses French White Bordeaux, which is an odd couple indeed. Mistinguette was a large mouthfilling rich "red" rose, probably not for most rose lovers, while du Casses was a very light and dry seafood wine. Mistinguette might serve as a cocktail for red wine lovers and in ninety degree temps I guess du Casses would work the same for white lovers.
Tinterro Moscato d'Asti and The Wishing Tree Unoaked Chardonnay were both decent examples of their types and may have been deserving of third place recognition but they definitly trailed the pinots.
Stop in this week before Friday the 24th and try any of these wines or the new cheeses in the store and get a 20% discount on your purchase.
Thanks for reading,
Don
Thursday, June 16, 2011
Dirty, Foul, and Proper
Recently I read a fine article that addressed the age-old question, "What wine do I serve my guests if I have no idea what they like?". My answer would be to serve the wine you feel is most appropriate for the meal. This writer, however, was aiming for congeniality. She recommended Pinot Grigio for a white and Italian reds in general for most meals. I agree with these recommendations based upon my experience here tasting out wines. The Italians are always well received.
But what if congeniality is not your thing and what if you are having strongly flavored meats (sausage/game?) with onions and garlic and cabbage and you think you might even want to light up a cigar at the table? What if the wedge of cheese on the table is an extremely aged Gruyere with what looks like a new and evolving life form on its exterior...and it's looking right at you? What if you don't give a hoot about political correctness and beer actually sounds okay in lieu of wine but your other half says wine. Do I have a wine for you.
Actually at any given time this store will have a half dozen earthy, strongly flavored reds from around the world but mostly from Spain, Italy, or France. They are exclusively "food wines" as opposed to sippers which is why they don't show well at tastings even if I offer a slice of sausage or strong cheese to accompany them. People really want to taste "stand alone" wines, something that could be served as a cocktail. Occasionally though someone will have a break-through moment when the food sample really works with the wine and more than a little magic occurs.
The wines I am talking about in particular are Spanish blends of Garnacha, Tempranillo, or Monastrell or their counterparts in the French Cotes du Rhone or elsewhere. These kinds of red blends are made everywhere but Spain unapologetically revels in these "dirty" wines. "Dirty, foul, and proper" my friend says, meaning this is the way it should be. You really can't get dressed up to work in the yard, can you? That is, unless your understanding of appropriate attire is that which works for you and your purposes.
It is all subjective in the final analysis and wine choices are not of ultimate importance anyway. Far from it. But if you want to try a stinky Spanish red, see me and cite the blog for a 10% discount. Also see the "Bomfim" blog from May 16th for further exposition on the subject.
Don
But what if congeniality is not your thing and what if you are having strongly flavored meats (sausage/game?) with onions and garlic and cabbage and you think you might even want to light up a cigar at the table? What if the wedge of cheese on the table is an extremely aged Gruyere with what looks like a new and evolving life form on its exterior...and it's looking right at you? What if you don't give a hoot about political correctness and beer actually sounds okay in lieu of wine but your other half says wine. Do I have a wine for you.
Actually at any given time this store will have a half dozen earthy, strongly flavored reds from around the world but mostly from Spain, Italy, or France. They are exclusively "food wines" as opposed to sippers which is why they don't show well at tastings even if I offer a slice of sausage or strong cheese to accompany them. People really want to taste "stand alone" wines, something that could be served as a cocktail. Occasionally though someone will have a break-through moment when the food sample really works with the wine and more than a little magic occurs.
The wines I am talking about in particular are Spanish blends of Garnacha, Tempranillo, or Monastrell or their counterparts in the French Cotes du Rhone or elsewhere. These kinds of red blends are made everywhere but Spain unapologetically revels in these "dirty" wines. "Dirty, foul, and proper" my friend says, meaning this is the way it should be. You really can't get dressed up to work in the yard, can you? That is, unless your understanding of appropriate attire is that which works for you and your purposes.
It is all subjective in the final analysis and wine choices are not of ultimate importance anyway. Far from it. But if you want to try a stinky Spanish red, see me and cite the blog for a 10% discount. Also see the "Bomfim" blog from May 16th for further exposition on the subject.
Don
Monday, June 13, 2011
Review of June 10th Wine Tasting
Of six wines tasted five deserve mention.
1. The first wine in the lineup was the 2010 Sensi Collezione Italian Pinot Grigio. It is an off-dry, light summer quaffer, perfect for this time of year. At $10.99/btl it was understandably the most popular wine of the tasting.
2. Kloster Pinot Noir 2005 is an industry close-out ($7.99/btl)from Phalz, Germany. It is a light and fruity red, again completely appropriate for the event and it too sold very well.
3. The 2008 Van Ruiten Old Vine Lodi Zinfandel is one we have tasted and approved in the past. It too sold well at $18.99/btl.
4. 2010 Sweet B Shiraz is a very good sweet red wine ($9.99/btl) but apparently we didn't have sweet red lovers here on Friday.
5. Novecento Sparkling Argentine Rosado was a real eye opener. It is labelled "dulce" but was not exceptionally sweet or the acidity and bubbles cut its sweetness. The makeup of the wine also includes a lot of white juice, making it a lighter than expected rose. It was very good at $12.99/btl.
All in all it was a good showing. Cite the blog and try any of these with a 10% discount this week.
Don
1. The first wine in the lineup was the 2010 Sensi Collezione Italian Pinot Grigio. It is an off-dry, light summer quaffer, perfect for this time of year. At $10.99/btl it was understandably the most popular wine of the tasting.
2. Kloster Pinot Noir 2005 is an industry close-out ($7.99/btl)from Phalz, Germany. It is a light and fruity red, again completely appropriate for the event and it too sold very well.
3. The 2008 Van Ruiten Old Vine Lodi Zinfandel is one we have tasted and approved in the past. It too sold well at $18.99/btl.
4. 2010 Sweet B Shiraz is a very good sweet red wine ($9.99/btl) but apparently we didn't have sweet red lovers here on Friday.
5. Novecento Sparkling Argentine Rosado was a real eye opener. It is labelled "dulce" but was not exceptionally sweet or the acidity and bubbles cut its sweetness. The makeup of the wine also includes a lot of white juice, making it a lighter than expected rose. It was very good at $12.99/btl.
All in all it was a good showing. Cite the blog and try any of these with a 10% discount this week.
Don
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