When Good People Disagree

He is about thirty years younger than me, so a generation or so.  I came of age wine-wise close to fifty years ago.  Both of us are in the business so we both know our way around the wine tasting table but a week ago we disagreed profoundly on the wines we were tasting.  

This is a vendor I trust completely, by the way.  I let him write his own orders for me when he has a push on something he thinks would work here.  So I was very surprised by the conversation assessing the merits of the Chilean wines we were tasting.  I started by remarking that the wines were forward and aiming for the California palate.  He added commentary about their richness and compared them to the French model and here's where I think the chasm exists.

Most of the wines on American store shelves are different from those of a couple generations ago.  Not the great estate wines, but those from the worldwide mass marketers.  They know where their bread is buttered and they butter it well.

In the previous post (and probably several others before that) we talked about the many technological improvements in winemaking that have resulted in fresher, more quaffable wines.  Having gotten into wines when I did, I still remember the drier winier wines on the shelf that were consistent with historical European tastes.  I also remember the somewhat rough California field blend reds that had their own charm, albeit in their imperfection.  And then there were the extreme bad examples of the way things were fifty years ago including the somewhat oxidized or cork-tainted fare that was more common than we would like to admit.

So the paradigm shift that has happened in wine tastes means the younger taster only recognizes the cleaned-up model while the older guy remembers the way things used to be.  And that's alright.

Compared to What?

Les McCann and Eddie Harris were a couple of jazz musicians who struck gold in the early 1970s with a crossover hit called Compared to What.  It was an anthem on college campuses when yours truly found himself in that milieu.  The lyrics, like most pop music, don't make sense but what we heard as rebellious youth was confirmation that there was a disconnect between what we were told to believe politically and what we were actually witnessing in the country at that time.  What can I say, it was a different time.  

In a way, the wine world is divided today between historic old Europe with their longer, drier, winier flavors and and new world jammy forward fruit.  They appear to be quite opposite one another.  We here at V&C have taken the position that Old Europe makes dinner wines while California makes cocktail wines.  But that doesn't really cover it either.  If a meal has complex sauces, gravies, stews or soups those longer winier flavors do seem to work best.  If it's hamburgers, steaks or broiled fish then a simpler wine may be better. 

So why do winemakers around the world always compare what they do to the European models?  My Cab is very Bordeaux-like.  My Pinot is very Burgundian.  Implied here in such comments is an acknowledgement that the historic standards for such things are accurate.  The best examples of type are European.

But it gets complicated when you consider all of the technological improvements in winemaking resulting in fresher fruitier wines everywhere and that includes Europe where much of the new technology has been developed.  Today you can taste Euro wines that are indistinguishable from new world fare, so like I said, it gets complicated.

But when you consider personal tastes, which is really what this all comes down to, I'm wondering if the old world/new world scenario as described is even relevant anymore.  Winemakers everywhere are competing for the same worldwide market and they are winning, not by setting themselves off as better than others but by riding the wave of what works now, circa 2026.  

Wine quality today is better than ever so whether you need a dinner accompaniment or just a glass after work, enjoy yourself.  You deserve it.  Compare it to what?  If anything, contrast it to beer or other alternatives.  What the winemaker creates is art compared to those alternatives.

Beringer and Treasury Wine Estates

We've been selling Beringer Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon with great success here of late and that has prompted this post.  Beringer is one of California's most iconic brands with its own storied history beginning with family-ownship from 1876 until 1971, which would seem to be the traditional glory days for a winery to us traditionalists...but that was really just the beginning.  

In 1971 Nestle (yes, that Nestle) bought Beringer and held it for twenty years, fifteen years of which overlapped our first fifteen years in the business. But I digress.  In 1996 something called The Texas Pacific Group bought Beringer but sold it four years later to Foster's Group (yes, that would be Fosters Beer.)  They held the company for eleven years selling it to Treasury in 2011, but not completely.  Fosters and Treasury worked out a collaboration much like InBev got by purchasing Anheuser Busch, worldwide distribution.

In 2021 Treasury went on to jettison all of the non-Beringer lower tier labels, keeping the Beringer name, of course, and the winery in St. Helena which they now run.  

Treasury Wine Estates is one of the colossuses of the wine industry today.  Depending on how one calculates these things, it ranks third or fourth in worldwide sales behind Gallo, The Wine Group and perhaps an entity called Castel Freres.  They own 1.2% of worldwide wine sales valued at $434 billion dollars.  Currently their expansion plans include forays into the China market.

Rioja Alta

Rioja Alta, along with Rioja Alavesa and Rioja Oriental, are the three sub-regions of Rioja, Spain's most highly acclaimed wine appellation.  Alta is the westernmost part of Rioja, lying just south of the Ebro River.  What makes this district special are the growing conditions, of course.  The vineyards there are the highest altitude vineyards in Rioja, hence the name, Alta.  The soils are primarily clay and reddish in color from iron and other alluvial components.  

Rioja reds are always elegant in character but the higher altitude Alta vineyards seem to lend color and acidity to the Tempranillo, Garnacha and Graciano grapes grown there.

The reason for this post?  We're hoping you need something really nice to complement your hamburgers or steak tonight because we currently have Taron Rioja Alta Tempranillo in the store at a ridiculously low price if you cite this post.  

Salivating yet?

Touriga Nacional (too-REE-gah nah-see-oh-NAL)

If you like big red wines you need to try this type from Portugal.  Best known for its contribution to the Port apertif blend, Touriga is now finding its place in the greater world of table wines.  And because it is so forthright and assertive, it complements entrees like ribs, brisket, steaks, lamb, stews and barbecue.  If meat isn't your thing, think mushrooms, beans and soups.

Touriga is usually a blender in wines that need a little punch.  It offers depth and structure, body, acidity, color, firm tannins and has a long dry finish.  In other words, it's clicking on all cylinders. In the nose the wine offers lift in the form of fragrantly floral aromas which contrast with the dark berries, black pepper, licorice, plum and earthiness on the palate.

Touriga is indigenous to Portugal and it's planted in unforgiving schisty soils that are more rock-like than traditional soils.  The vineyard yields are small with smallish berries with thick skins which goes a long ways toward explaining the dominant character of the wine described above.

The new world venue most comparable to Portuguese environs is Australia where Touriga has found a home in recent years.  While Portuguese Touriga is savory, earthy, complex and capable of improving for ten to twenty years; consistent with worldwide models everywhere, the Australians make a lighter drink-now style.

Stop in and try some Touriga.  We have good examples of both styles right now.

Pinot Blanc

If you hang around this industry long enough, you begin to see how trends happen; that is to say, you see things change, but you don't always understand the whys behind those changes.  Like, why did Pinot Blanc seem to get a demotion in Burgundy when fifty years ago it was clearly second best to Chardonnay.  Aligote now holds that position and plantings of Pinot Blanc in Burgundy have become rare indeed.  

Truth be known, we always thought Aligote was the better grape but in fairness, Pinot Blanc is very unoaked chard-like and a very versatile food-friendly wine in its own right.

We recently got in a case of Pinot Blanc from the historically reliable Boedecker Cellars of Willamette Valley, Oregon.  Boedecker says their wine has a honeysuckle nose with peaches, apricots, green apples, lemon curd, pear and minerality on the palate.  It carries a premium price tag but if it is as they acclaim, it may be a bargain.

As we said before, Pinot Blanc (Bianco) is a very versatile, all-purpose white like its sibling, Pinot Gris (Grigio), and like its paisano sibling, Italian Pinot Bianco is exceptional as a summertime pairing with seafood and salads.  This is garden variety pinot we're talking about.  In both northern Italy and Alsace, however, Pinot Blanc makes a richer white wine with ample fruity and floral aromas and flavors complemented by heady minerality.

We started this diatribe with a discussion of changes in this industry over time.  Here's a constant though.  Those everyday Euro pinots are still a bargain and the Alsatians and northern Italians are values at their price points.  And if the Boedecker is true to form, it may be a centerpiece.

Segura Viudas

Segura Viudas is Spanish Cava, the best buy in everyday-priced sparkling wine.  Stack it up up against any other country's bargain-priced sparklers and you won't find anything better.  AND you won't get a headache from it!

Cava hails from the Penedes region of Spain which is within the Catalunya region which includes Barcelona.  The traditional Cava grape composition includes Xarello, Macabeo and Parellada.  Xarello is the most flavorful of the three.  Parellada offers a crisp appliness and Macabeo is basically a neutral filler.  Together they seem to work just fine.

There is a difference between everyday Cava and Reservas.  The inexpensive stuff is citrusy, floral and fruity.  Reservas can show a nutty, creamy complexity.  The Heredad Reserva from Segura Viudas is most definitely of that creamy style and we recommend it highly.

The Heredad Segura Viudas brand was established in 1969.  The current winery was built at about the same time as the sparkling wine industry began in the 12th century.  Vineyard plantings were documented in 1156.  The winery building, which served many purposes through the centuries, was modernized in the 1950s when the Segura brothers bought the place.  In one of its early incarnations, the building was a military fort.

Segura Viudas was sold to The Frexienet Group in 1984.  To their credit, that mega-company has successfully maintained the quality since then.

Segura Viudas is now on our store shelves and if you like good bubbly, you really ought to pick up a bottle.