Uruguayan wines are flying under the radar right now but don't expect that to last. Their flagship Tannat red has already been recognized for its world class status and now we want everyone to know about their Albarino (alba REEN yo) white.
In the store at this time we have FAAA! Albarino. Yeah, FAAA! is the sorry name for the wine. We can't do anything about that but the wine is a great example of Albarino. Just to recap: Historically, Albarino is seafood wine from Rias Baixas on the Atlantic coast of Spain. Over there it shows stone fruit, zippy acidity and salinity from the ocean influence. In Uruguay it is recognized as that country's great white wine with a similar profile but perhaps even more complex and intense than the Spanish version.
FAAA! is from Canelones, the best of fifteen wine producing departments in Uruguay. The soil is granite and schist yielding minerality and a creamy texture to wines. Of the same latitude as South Africa and Australia, Uruguay has a similarly temperate maritime climate.
Tannat came to Uruguay with the earliest Basque and Italian immigrants in the 1870's. It wasn't until 1954 that Albarino made it there. The 180 small family wineries that make up the Uruguayan wine industry are mostly owned by several generations of the same families that started them, which is refreshing when contrasted with the mass-marketers of California.
Uruguayan wines enjoyed a forty percent increase in international sales in 2024. They are now fourth over all in South American wine sales. Uruguay also ranks first in several South American quality of life surveys so they must be doing a lot right down there.
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