Wednesday, August 27, 2025

Cru Vineyard Beaujolais

If you like French Burgundy, and I'm talking Pinot Noir, but can't afford the good stuff, look south to where the Gamay grape is king.  It's still Burgundy (geographically speaking) but without the pretense and pricing of the great wines to the north.  

Further to the south is Beaujolais proper where oceans of light fruity quaffing wine originates.  What we're talking about is the area in between where the qualitatively better Gamay comes from, the stuff that approximates the pinots to the north at that more comfortable price point.

There are ten crus in the region, ten vineyards that have historically produced wine of superior quality.  About halfway down this north-to-south list the terroir changes.  The first five crus resemble Pinot Noir country climate-wise while the last five to the south, with one outlier, resemble the Mediterranean Cotes du Rhone climate to the south.  This is a generalization but the bigger reds come from the north and the softer reds come from the south.

All Beaujolais show berry flavors in abundance and our northernmost cru, Julienas, is all about strawberries and lingonberries.  St. Amour is difficult to peg down flavor-wise.  It's sort of all over the map.  Chenas is big age-worthy red wine.  Moulin a Vent is decidedly full-bodied and tannic.  It's big red wine that turns more pinot-ish with age.  Fleuries are floral, as the name implies, but still capable of aging well.

The five crus to the south start with Chiroubles, a soft, lighter-styled, delicate red.  Morgon is the outlier mentioned above.  It is a full-bodied, rich and powerful, meaty, age-worthy cherry bomb that also turns pinot-ish with age.  The last three; Regnie, Cotes de Brouilly and Brouilly; are all soft and rich fruit bombs.  They are more like the Beaujolais to the south but still qualitatively better. 

So, to summarize: The big reds are Morgon, Moulin a Vent and Chenas.  All three are capable of aging up to ten years.  In a good vintage any cru should hold/improve for three to five years.  And the lighter ones you can enjoy anytime. 

So why this post now?  Because these wines are selling better than ever.  Maybe they've been discovered.  You should try one. 

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