Cantine San Marzano

A couple weeks ago we had the opportunity to taste six from Cantine San Marzano located in the heel of the boot of Italy.  The larger wine appellation running up the back side of the boot is called Puglia but the heel itself is called Salento.  It is comprised of three wine producing provinces; Tarantino, Brindisi and Lecce; from north to south.  Marzano is a small village near the middle of the boot (Brindisi region) located in the Primitivo di Manduria DOP (Denominazione di Origine Protetta.)

At their website Cantine San Marzano traces their history to 1962 when nineteen growers affiliated for the purpose of advancing their common interest - grape growing.  In 1996 through the efforts of their leadership they built their physical plant and in 2000 they created their signature wine, Sessantani Primitivo Di Manduria.  Of the six new Marzano wines in the store only two have DOP status, the one we just mentioned and the 62 Anniversario Riserva Primitivo Di Manduria.  Much of Salento is apparently undistinguished according to Italian wine law.  Even perhaps the best known wine of the region, Salice Salentino, is considered vino da tavola.  

Traditional red wines from Salento are powerful, dry, rustic reds that are meant to complement strongly flavored red meat meals.  Because of the hot and dry growing conditions there, that is basically the only red wine style possible for them.  Fifty grape types are allowed in Salento, most of which arrived on their shores thousands of years ago from Greece.  Primitivo (Zinfandel), while originally from Croatia, most likely arrived here like the others, courtesy of Greek traders.  Most reds are constructed of Primitivo or Negroamaro with Malvasia Nera as filler.  The main white of the region is Fiano.

Like elsewhere in Italy and around the world, the international grapes have taken hold in Salento.  The white wine in our Marzano purchase is predominantly Chardonnay.  We have both a Primitivo and Negroamaro that are exceptional everyday-priced reds.  Aside from the two primo Primitivos listed above we also have a Negroamaro called F, short for Feudi di San Marzano.  

As we said, the two lower priced reds are formidable entries into that category.  The white is exceptional.  F is an IGP (Indicazione Geographica Protetta), a less distinguished quality level, but still priced like a DOP and of comparable quality to the two Primitivos.  What makes the higher tier worth the bigger bucks?  The grapes are hand harvested from old bush vines.  They have a 24-48 hour cold soak maceration before undergoing a temperature controlled malolactic fermentation.  The wine is then aged a year in oak.