Northern France - Southern France

Menetou-Salon is a legally delimited wine appellation adjacent to Sancerre at the eastern end of the Loire Valley. The finest Sauvignon Blanc in the world is sourced from this general area of northern France.  By contrast, Gard is an IGP (indication geographique protegee), a vin de pays level wine region, one step above the most basic quality level.  It lies in the middle of southern France just above the Mediterranean Sea.  Both of our examples for this post entered our store this week and again, perhaps to generalize too much, it's the difference between north and south in France.

The finest wines of France begin just a quarter of the way up the map with Bordeaux at 44 degrees latitude.  With the exception of the fine types from the Rhone Valley, everything else plays a second quality fiddle in the south.  Yet most of the wine made in France comes from that ribbon across the south and most of it's not bad.

We weren't familiar with Menetou-Salon before this one came in the door.  Since it was from our best supplier we kept it even though we were told it would be a Sancerre.  After just a little research, that turned out to be a good move.  Menetou-Salon may be viewed today as a westward extension of Sancerre to meet world demand. 

Our Gard example is Domaine Mas Barrau Cabernet Franc.  Its label says it is a 100% varietal Cab from a single vineyard family-run estate.  It is certified organic.  While we have no reason to doubt the claims just stated, it is marketed by a huge international wine concern and as an IGP wine, much is left non-guaranteed.  It only has to be sourced from that region with legally defined harvest limits.   

By contrast, as an AOP (appellation d'origine protogee), our Menetou-Salon must adhere to the two conditions just listed plus historic wine making processes including blending rules and alcohol content.   

Interestingly, both regions share a connection with antiquity.  In all likelihood Gard viticulture was begun by 6th century Greeks planting grape varieties originally from Greece.  The Loire Valley has monastic vineyard documentation from the 14th century that alludes to 11th century development.

So why the profound difference in the appraisal of the north vis a vis the south?  It's no surprise - The north has cooler temperatures and in this case, Kimmeridgian soils, AND protectionist wine appellation laws that keep pricing optimal.  Consequently our Cabernet Franc ends up being half the price of the pedigreed Sauvignon Blanc.