Nuevemeses

This is an inexpensive estate-bottled red blend from Bodegas Grupo Yllera of Spain.  Yllera is a formidable operation that markets wines from several appellations in Spain, all within the largest wine region of the European Union, Castilla y Leon.  This tract overlays the northern half of the Meseta Central plateau, one-fifth of the land mass of Spain, extending from Rioja to the east to Portugal to the west.  Nuevemeses is the entry level offering in what they call their classic line of red wines from Castilla y Leon.  

The key wine grape of the region is Tempranillo.  Nuevemeses is 91% Tempranillo with the remainder being some combination of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah.  The wine has a cherry red color with purple highlights with a complex nose featuring red fruits, plum and chocolate.  On the palate darker berry flavors emerge with pepper, vanilla and toast.  In the mouth the wine is soft, round and elegant.

Castilla y Leon has a two thousand year history of winemaking.  Its continental climate features hot dry summers and sharp cold winters.  The region is sheltered by mountains from the temperature-moderating Atlantic Ocean so the diurnal effect of day/night temperature swings is in full effect.  This temperature swing maximizes the inherent grape aromas and minimizes oxidation in the rich red wines of the region.  Night harvesting of grapes captures those grapes at their best.

What makes Nuevemeses a red wine worth trying?  Aside from what we've already said above, the winemaking includes an extended fourteen day maceration with daily pumping before undergoing malolactic fermentation in stainless steel.  Then the wine sees time in American oak barrels before further aging in the bottle.  Folks, when considered with what we know of the region, this bespeaks quality winemaking.  Enjoy this one with your steak, hamburgers or really anything you would like.

The Finger Lakes

It's been ten years since the release of Jancis Robinson's acclaimed American Wine book.  That much anticipated tome justifiably covered the established west coast industry, as you would expect, but also surveyed the rest of the country.  In the book she acknowledged what wasn't exactly a secret - The Finger Lakes appellation in upper New York State deserves its due as one of our finest wine venues.

The very first vinifera wine grapes to be planted in America arrived in New York in 1647 courtesy of some well meaning Dutch colonists who, of course, knew nothing of the appetite of the American phylloxera aphid.  That short lived experiment set New York winemaking back almost two hundred years, essentially conceding the industry to America's native labrusca grapes.  French-American hybrids followed in the 1950's before America's tastes finally shifted to finer wines.

What makes the Finger Lakes AVA (American Viticultural Area) so desirable?  It has the cooler continental climate wine grapes love and gravelly (fast-draining), nutrient-poor slate soils that force a taproot deeper for sustenance.  Trace elements of this and that then find their way into the fruit yielding a clean, fresh, minerally wine with high acidity.  These are white wines in particular we are talking about and by this description you know they would be delightful if enjoyed by themselves.  But that acidity is also perfect at mealtime for cutting through fatty meats and fishes and standing up to spicy cuisine.    

The Finger Lakes fine white wine claim to fame is the versatile Riesling grape which may be made into wine styles from very dry to strictly-for-dessert.  The typical flavor profile may include some combination of green apple, citrus and stone fruit flavors accompanying a floral component along with the acidity and minerality mentioned above.  

Riesling is one of a handful of noble wine grapes and the coolness of the Finger Lakes growing conditions are ideal for it.  Forty years ago in what may have been my first blind tasting, we tasted five Rieslings from distinct locales across the country.  Surprisingly I correctly identified each with the Finger Lakes wine being memorable for its soft round mouthfeel.

Las Lilas Vinho Verde Rose

This delightful dry rose comes from the Adega Ponte Barca winery (est. 1963) in northwestern Portugal.  Specifically, this is the Vinho Verde wine appellation we're talking about, home to the lightest white wines you will find anywhere.  While that is the pride of the region, the roses shouldn't be overlooked.   The Lilas is a lightly effervescent, fresh, floral and crisp quaff with cherry fruit notes.  Food affinities would be seafood and salads.

The hand harvested Las Lilas fruit comes from twenty year old mountainous estate vines lying between the Lima and Vez rivers and since we're talking about Vinho Verde here, the Atlantic Ocean maritime influence is real.  

Adega Ponte Barca is a modern winemaking facility that does everything in stainless steel.  After an extended maceration with little fining or filtering the wine is left on the lees for two months, accounting for much of its character.

The Las Lilas Rose consists of 40% Vinhao grapes, 30% Borracal and 30% Espadeiro.  What does that actually mean for us, considering these types are not exactly household names?  If you go to the Wikipedia page called List of Portuguese Wine Grape Varieties you run smack dab into the miasma that is really old Old World winemaking.  Vinhao turns out to be two varieties that are currently being hashed out as to which may be the variety in this wine.  Espadeiro is a family of five grapes types that we couldn't differentiate.  Borracal goes by eighteen different names.  All we were able to glean from this mess is that in all likelihood Vinhao imparts color and rustic raisiny character while Borracal gives the wine a perfumy nose and tart acidity.  Espadeiro?  Heck if we know.